Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Manoverboard
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Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by Manoverboard »

The Wessex Rose is a 5* Hotel Barge that chugs sedately along the Avon & Kennet Canal, essentially between Newbury and Bath in 3,4,5 or 7 day segments .... we booked 7+7 day back to back cruises taking in the entire network in part because we couldn’t decide which bit to leave out.

http://www.wessexrose.co.uk/

We joined in Kintbury, Berkshire, on Friday the 13th ( June 2014 ) and were as mentioned above expecting to travel the entire length of the Canal over a period of 14 days, a journey which if taken by road would take little more than an hour. The 10 day weather forecast had been very favourable with no mention at all of the thunder and torrential rain that was to follow later that night. The journey from Dorset was easy enough but it took us three attempts, out of three possibilities, to locate the correct Car Park within ever so embarrassingly small Kintbury for boarding the Wessex Rose. We also learnt that we would not be heading for Newbury due to Lock Maintenance further along the canal in the opposite direction. The forces of Friday the 13th were it seemed conspiring against us so what else could go wrong ... absolutely nothing basically.


The boat ...

Just to mention that the average barge / narrow boat is 6 feet wide and has little privacy, shared facilities and bunk beds else fold down sofas and the food usually consists of Pub Grub. Conversely the Wessex Rose is 12 feet wide and 69 feet long so is huge, also far more luxurious, by comparison but she does fit rather snugly into the locks.


The Cabins ...

There are three double / twin cabins for guests with each having their own en-suite facilities complete with individual water pumps and airline / cruise ship style full sized toilets. The power shower is within the same compact enclosure and is by design akin to a wet room. Tea / coffee is provided in the cabin but we opted to purchase some instant Nescafe Gold Blend Coffee rather than fiddle about with the supplied cafetiere at that (un)certain time of the morning but we did utilise the fresh chilled milk as supplied every evening by Karen in a mini thermos flask. The cabins are compact with the en-suite facilities leading off the main cabin but do have sufficient space for a luxury quality king sized bed equivalent in the double configuration option plus a slim wardrobe and sufficient shelf space for most cruises.. We took a small suitcase plus a carry-on type bag each which we stowed under the bed for additional space, essential for a 14 night cruise but beneficial for dirty washing if nothing else for any cruise duration.

Egyptian cottons rule as do fluffy white towels plus oodles of piping hot water and 13amp sockets. A small LED type torch is thoughtfully provided for guests who may need to get up in the night along with tissues and eco friendly toiletries in the en-suite etc. We didn’t need the torch cos we had taken our own but seemingly managed to return home with two identical ones.


The Journey ....

The order below and no doubt some of the finer details are ‘ ish ‘ as is / are the time and timings on a canal trip, just go with the flow.

The journey itself was from Bridge No 75 / Lock No 78 in Kintbury, Berkshire to Bridge No 189 / Lock 11 in the delightful City of Bath. The Bridges are numbered East to West with No 1 being in London whereas the ‘ Number 1 ‘ Lock is in Bristol increasing thereafter as they head Eastwards. As an aside / major highlight we therefore cruised through the Bruce Tunnel and the 16 consecutive locks West of Devizes known as the Caen Hill Flight in addition to passing through 115 bridges and 68 locks.

The Kennet and Avon is described by some as being the most beautiful Canal in the Country and we couldn’t possible argue about that given that this was our virgin canal cruise, we have however walked a few towpaths in our time. It was an amazingly scenic journey in a 200 year old setting virtually throughout its length, albeit with all Mod Cons, and we certainly didn’t want to miss a single yard / metre of it by being in the cabin or on published walking routes between the bridges etc. The travel times are varied and the stopping points are in part based on requests from the guests rather than being imposed but we were always parked / moored overnight and for breakfast, lunch and our evening meals.

Newbury we missed but we were able to visit Hungerford, Great Bedwyn, Alton Barnes with Alton Priors, Pewsey plus Marlborough via the local bus, All Cannings, Honeystreet, Wooten Rivers, Devizes, Bradford on Avon, Avoncliffe village and their aqueduct, Dundas aqueduct, Bathampton and finally Bath. Not a gob-smacking itinerary on the surface I grant you but as a whole it was as interesting as any sea or riverboat cruise that we have ever been on but for entirely different reasons.

Did you know that Bathampton was where the factory was ( until 1983 ) that made all that plasticine for us kids to play with .... thought not.

There is plenty of wildlife to see, ranging from the umpteen cats and dogs resident on the narrow boats to the swans, ducks, moorhens, herons, kingfishers and various birds of prey in their natural habitats ... we also saw a few water snakes and fish, plus fishermen with growly faces even though the Wessex Rose had slowed down considerably to pass them.

The K&A was derelict for many years but restoration with the not inconsiderable assistance of Sybil, of Faulty Towers fame, and her other half Timothy West was completed some 25 years ago. The canal was built with a water depth of 5 feet but lack of expenditure over recent years has resulted in nearly half that depth being lost to silt which does of course result in occasional inconvenience and grounding for all the barges. The width of the canal is being reduced due to weed encroachment and trees are over hanging the canal but armed with only a trusty pair of secateurs our resident tree pruner, David, sets to work dealing with this small matter.


The Food ...

But remember that timings are ‘ish ‘ !

08:00 – Breakfast

11:00 – Cafetiere of Coffee / Tea plus Karen’s home made cookies.

13:30 – Lunch, single course plus fruit as required

15:30 – Cafetiere of Coffee / Tea plus Karen’s home made cakes.

19:30 – 4 course Evening meal

Menus are fixed and during our cruise rotated at 7 day intervals, this was hardly a major problem but we would have preferred to sample seven more creative dishes from the ‘ Executive Chef ‘, courses are plated but will be served in smaller portions if requested. Dietary issues are catered for but advance notification is of course required.

The standard of food is exceptionally high, think ‘ Master Chef ‘ rather than ‘ Little Chef ‘, it was in reality far better than anything we have ever been served on a Cruise Ship regarding quality, taste and especially so presentation. Gourmet or Fine Dining is an apt description.

Beer and wines are all inclusive and although some restrictions re choice must apply due to lack of on board storage space the provision is generous and of a decent quality.

Main meals are served on three close proximity tables for two in the dining / lounge area at the not so pointy end, an area which is well lit and ventilated due to opening windows on three sides plus a sliding glass roof.


The Crew ....

There is the Executive Chef plus a trained Helmsman and Navigator of course plus a member of the team who replenishes water, diesel and LPG fuel levels as well as dealing with any waste water, environmental and landfill waste. There is also a sous chef, a pastry cook and a Housekeeper who does all the laundry and keeps everything absolutely spotless throughout this splendid craft. There is in addition a cabin Steward, two waiters plus a bar steward as well as a maintenance engineer, luggage porter, tree pruner and a lock operator.

All these people are called David and Karen.


As an aside ....

Gratuities are neither expected nor required.

Flowers are to be found in pots atop the deck along with chairs and collapsible protective rails, the rails need to be taken down while cruising due to a number of low-ish bridges.

A Canal Cruise is by its very nature extremely laid back and entirely casual, thankfully, even in our 5 star Barge Hotel. We did however dress up to something approaching elegant casual for our evening meals, well, most of the time anyway.

Not that it matters but we were the only British guests on board, the other passengers throughout were Antipodean.

~~~~~~~~~ FIN
Keep smiling, it's good for your well being

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GillD46
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

#2

Post by GillD46 »

That sounds very enjoyable - living nearby for nearly 30 years, we often walked the tow path from Kintbury. I would be interested for a few days, but wonder if they would cater for me as a vegetarian - I have emailed to ask!

Thanks for sharing this interesting and different revew.
Gill

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kaymar
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by kaymar »

Fascinating, mob - thanks for that. Just had a quick look at the website - a definite maybe for the future.

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oldbluefox
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by oldbluefox »

An interesting report Mob and welcome back! It's amazing what little gems exist in Britain when we slow down and look.

We had a wonderful time aboard a 30ft narrowboat from Middlewich up to Chester. On paper it's not the most exhilarating of itineraries but we found some lovely little villages (and pubs!) and also found it really relaxing. Fellow cruisers were very friendly and chatty even though we were mere trippers for a week. And it is amazing the wildlife you come across.
You are correct about fishermen Mob. The ones we came across were never very happy especially the one who parked himself on the opposite side of a bridge which was on a bend. He was lucky I managed to get 30ft of plate metal under the bridge and round the bend. The fact I nearly wiped out his rod and keep net was a minor consideration. Not my fault he had positioned himself in the worst possible spot and I only had two days experience as Captain!!

For anybody fit and able I can recommend a narrowboat holiday. If you're not then the Wessex Rose sounds wonderful.

Thanks for sharing your holiday Mob.

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

#5

Post by Dancing Queen »

I've been looking forward to this review since you first told us about it Moby, so pleased it lived up to your expectations it sounds as if you had a wonderful time :thumbup:
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

#6

Post by Holiday Planner »

We too can recommended a narrow boat holiday. We had a very relaxing week in April courtesy of Cambrian Cruisers on the Brecon and Monmouth Canal .... Travelling at 2 mph we were overtaken by the tow path dog walkers!Image
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by Dancing Queen »

What a fabulous photo Angela.
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

#8

Post by Holiday Planner »

My favourite place to sit with a coffee, a camera and a book (whilst Andrew was steering from the back) [emoji6]
Angela

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by Manoverboard »

GillD46 wrote:
That sounds very enjoyable - living nearby for nearly 30 years, we often walked the tow path from Kintbury. I would be interested for a few days, but wonder if they would cater for me as a vegetarian - I have emailed to ask!

Thanks for sharing this interesting and different revew.
Kintbury, nice place eh, did you know that they still have horse drawn barges operating there ?

We had a vege on the first week and her food looked wonderful and varied, none of that baked pasta rubbish every night :lol:
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

#10

Post by Manoverboard »

kaymar wrote:
Fascinating, mob - thanks for that. Just had a quick look at the website - a definite maybe for the future.
Good plan ... they are, by the way, doing a new trip in 2015 that goes from Newbury on the Kennet to Oxford which is of course on the Thames.
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Jan Rosser
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by Jan Rosser »

Well what a lovely leisurely "cruise" you had Moby - thanks for sharing it with us - something really different.
Janis

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oldbluefox
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

#12

Post by oldbluefox »

He'll have needed the relaxing break. His season starts on 9th August!!

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Mervyn and Trish
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by Mervyn and Trish »

Thanks Moby. Looks great, though you don't mention whether the production shows were any good or not and how much you won or lost in the casino!

I've added the website to our favourites on my PC for future reference. We owned a little canal boat for nearly 20 years and love the canals. The idea of doing it with that vast crew doing all the hard work for us really appeals.

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

#14

Post by Manoverboard »

oldbluefox wrote:
... For anybody fit and able I can recommend a narrowboat holiday. If you're not then the Wessex Rose sounds wonderful.
Cheeky sod, I'de have you know that the fit and able can certainly operate the locks etc if they have a mind to on the Wessex Rose, no problem at all. Having said that Mobietta dabbled a tad but I didn't due to a balance phobia-ish type problem when looking down at water.

oldbluefox wrote:
He'll have needed the relaxing break. His season starts on 9th August!!
It was indeed extremely relaxing and a real tonic I dare say for anybody who is feeling particularly stressed out at any point in time ... and that doesn't include me if only cos Vydra is back and Burnley won't be getting Troy Deeney.

:wave:
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by oldbluefox »

Manoverboard wrote:
oldbluefox wrote:
... For anybody fit and able I can recommend a narrowboat holiday. If you're not then the Wessex Rose sounds wonderful.
Cheeky sod, I'de have you know that the fit and able can certainly operate the locks etc if they have a mind to on the Wessex Rose, no problem at all. Having said that Mobietta dabbled a tad but I didn't due to a balance phobia-ish type problem when looking down at water.
Shame on you sending out poor Mobietta in all weathers whilst you sit inside sipping your G&T!!! :lol:

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

#16

Post by david63 »

There seems to be a theme developing with MoB's "cruising".

First it is ocean cruising, then river cruising and now canal cruising - next it will be three weeks cruising on the local boating lake :crazy: :lol: :lol:

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by Mervyn and Trish »

david63 wrote:
There seems to be a theme developing with MoB's "cruising".

First it is ocean cruising, then river cruising and now canal cruising - next it will be three weeks cruising on the local boating lake :crazy: :lol: :lol:
Only if he can get someone else to do the rowing for him!

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by Kenmo1 »

Mervyn and Trish wrote:
david63 wrote:
There seems to be a theme developing with MoB's "cruising".

First it is ocean cruising, then river cruising and now canal cruising - next it will be three weeks cruising on the local boating lake :crazy: :lol: :lol:
Only if he can get someone else to do the rowing for him!
Surely that is what cruising is all about - letting someone else do all the hard work for you. :thumbup:

Maureen

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by david63 »

Mervyn and Trish wrote:
david63 wrote:
There seems to be a theme developing with MoB's "cruising".

First it is ocean cruising, then river cruising and now canal cruising - next it will be three weeks cruising on the local boating lake :crazy: :lol: :lol:
Only if he can get someone else to do the rowing for him!
Isn't that what Mobiettia is for? :lol: :lol:

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Mervyn and Trish
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by Mervyn and Trish »

david63 wrote:
Mervyn and Trish wrote:
david63 wrote:
There seems to be a theme developing with MoB's "cruising".

First it is ocean cruising, then river cruising and now canal cruising - next it will be three weeks cruising on the local boating lake :crazy: :lol:
Only if he can get someone else to do the rowing for him!
Isn't that what Mobiettia is for? :lol:
Are you going to tell her? :moresarcasm: Or is that what Moby is for?

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

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Post by Manoverboard »

Holiday Planner wrote:
My favourite place to sit with a coffee, a camera and a book (whilst Andrew was steering from the back) [emoji6]
Nice pic HP ... I am still working through mine but seem to have a whole pile that follow the ' reflections in the water ' theme :lol:
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

#22

Post by Manoverboard »

david63 wrote:
There seems to be a theme developing with MoB's "cruising".

First it is ocean cruising, then river cruising and now canal cruising - next it will be three weeks cruising on the local boating lake :crazy: :lol: :lol:
You shouldn't have mentioned the boating lake, been there ... seen it done it etc :thumbup:

Wickstead Park-ish, Kettering 1964-ish ... picture two couples in the boat with us two cool dudes in sole command of the oars, progress was incredibly slow that day but we soon sussed out the reason. Seems we were facing in the wrong direction and rowing against the back of the boat :oops:

So .... Mobietta, let me confirm, is a far better option regards boating duties.
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

#23

Post by Manoverboard »

Dancing Queen wrote:
I've been looking forward to this review since you first told us about it Moby, so pleased it lived up to your expectations it sounds as if you had a wonderful time
We certainly did, thank you :wave:

Jan Rosser wrote:
Well what a lovely leisurely "cruise" you had Moby - thanks for sharing it with us - something really different.
Yes, very different but worth doing ... we enjoyed the experience but will probably return to sea cruising next year.

Mervyn and Trish wrote:
Thanks Moby. Looks great, though you don't mention whether the production shows were any good or not and how much you won or lost in the casino!

I've added the website to our favourites on my PC for future reference. We owned a little canal boat for nearly 20 years and love the canals. The idea of doing it with that vast crew doing all the hard work for us really appeals.
The vast crew, aka David and Karen, do a brilliant job and really do earn every penny of the cruise cost, I cannot praise them highly enough.

The evening entertainment focuses, for the most part, on amusing and intelligent conversation ... ah, perchance you could surely struggle a tad on such a venture my good man :lol:
Keep smiling, it's good for your well being

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

#24

Post by Dennis The Menace »

Cheers Moby, being a local I'm familiar with most of the places you visited - or at least I'm familiar with the canal side establishments in the places you visited! - but have never personally "barged" along there for any longer than a day. Sounds lovely.

How long did it take you to complete the locks at Caen Hill? I often used to walked up and down the main mile or so and, from the conversations with some of the people on the barges, it sounded like it could sometimes take all day to do the full 2 miles/29 locks.

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Mervyn and Trish
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... June 2014

#25

Post by Mervyn and Trish »

I've seen those locks too. I reckon they take most of the first week. :lol:

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